Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave

Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave

Author:
Series: Quick Lit September 2021
Tag: Kindle Deals: Still On Sale
ASIN: B003L785LK

From the publisher: "With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean's beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave—that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits."

Buy from Amazon Kindle
Buy from Amazon
Buy from Audible.com
Buy from Bookshop
About the Book
Look Inside